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Oct 29, 2024

Do vitamin C serums really work? Which one should I buy? Dermatologists weigh in

We independently evaluate the products we review. When you buy via links on our site, we may receive compensation. Read more about how we vet products and deals. As a beauty editor who helps women

We independently evaluate the products we review. When you buy via links on our site, we may receive compensation. Read more about how we vet products and deals.

As a beauty editor who helps women over 40 find the most effective anti-aging products, I interview dozens of dermatologists and aestheticians each year. More and more, those experts recommend topical vitamin C to bolster healthier, younger-looking skin. In fact, because of the widespread popularity of vitamin C — and an influx of dozens of new creams and serums on the market — earlier this year, I spent four months testing vitamin C products and interviewing skin-care experts about how they work. All the doctors I spoke with considered a stable form of vitamin C a must-have for any quality skin-care routine. Here's why.

Vitamin C's skin-health benefits have been documented in dozens of clinical trials. Studies show that consistent, daily use of a stable form of vitamin C improves skin texture and evens skin tone on both the face and neck in as little as three months. In clinical trials, vitamin C serums have reduced hyperpigmentation from sun damage, lightened dark spots and diminished redness, particularly if the formula had a concentration of 10% to 20% vitamin C and contained stabilizing ingredients like ferulic acid and vitamin E.

According to dermatologists and skin-care experts, using a stabilized form of vitamin C is critical to maintaining bright, healthy, bouncy skin as we age. "A vitamin C serum is nonnegotiable. You need it twice a day," says facial plastic surgeon Dr. Kay Durairaj. "In the morning, it's an antioxidant to treat sun damage; in the evenings, it's going to help build collagen and skin repair."

"Vitamin C is an antioxidant," says cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Ava Shamban. "Antioxidants are substances that can protect, prevent or delay cellular damage by counteracting the free radicals and oxidative stress caused by environmental pollutants, UV rays, chemicals and other factors. Vitamin C is perhaps our most important antioxidant; it can boost brightening, improve hydration, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, and fight inflammation."

First things first: Vitamin C is an unstable molecule that degrades rapidly when exposed to elements like sunlight or heat. For the product to be effective, you'll need to find packaging such as opaque plastic or dark-colored glass that will protect the product in transit and, later, storage. You also want to know that what's inside is fresh (more on this in my review below). Remember, vitamin C works best in tandem with ferulic acid and vitamin E, so study labels before buying. Last, a serum with less than a 10% concentration of vitamin C will not bring the skin-brightening, collagen-boosting benefits you want. On the flip side, more is not more: Over a 20% concentration will irritate most skin types. The sweet spot is somewhere in between.

The reviews quoted above reflect the most recent versions at the time of publication.